Margarito “Mago” Pérez remembers the part of his childhood spent in Villahermosa—just outside Matamoros, Brownsville’s sister city—well. The one-room home had no air-conditioning, running water, indoor plumbing, or a roof.Pérez’s father supported his wife and children by working as a mechanic at the garage he owned. Unlike his male cousins, who were told to go outside and play, Pérez stayed in to assist the family matriarchs in the kitchen, grabbing ingredients for dishes. “I knew it meant snacks,” Pérez says. “I got the first tortillas, the first slice of carne asada off the grill.” He also rode his tricycle to pick up limes. He didn’t know it at the time but such occasions made him the taquero he is today.Pérez, who now owns Paprika ATX,…

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This article was originally published by José R. Ralat at Texas Monthly – You can read this article and more at (https://www.texasmonthly.com/food/paprika-atx/).

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