Not a Taco Salad and Not a Taco Bowl, Taco Rice Is Its Own Delicacy

The Tex-Mexplainer series explores the ingredients, techniques, history, and culture of Mexican food in Texas. Leo Davila, the chef-owner of Stixs & Stone taqueria, in San Antonio, had never heard of taco rice until his Korean girlfriend, Kendra Billinghurst, who was raised on the southern Japanese island of Okinawa, mentioned the dish topped with ground beef, lettuce, tomato, and cheese. “It kind of reminds me of taco night at one of my white friend’s houses growing up,” Davila says, “except it’s on steamed rice.” I hadn’t gotten a chance to taste it until I was invited to Cafe Hana, in Irving, by co-owner Sara Nam. Her version, cooked by Okinawa-born employee Aya Ibuka, is a bowl of short-grain white rice topped with saucy ground beef seasoned with garlic,…

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